Week Three begins, and I’m well rested from my long nap and sleep last night. Today is the big day through Big Sur and a lot of hills, and I’m hoping my ride goes better than the day before.

A light drizzle began to form as I loaded my bike. I wrapped my sleeping bag in plastic grocery bag before covering it with the tatters of my compression sack in an attempt to keep it dry through the ride. The rain was light but just the right amount to collect on my riding glasses and not run off, so I rode without them. (I normally always have them on to keep my contacts from drying out and to keep things from flying into my eyes.)

I headed into Carmel and stopped at Katy’s Place for an excellent breakfast of corned beef hash (finally!) while I charged up my devices. My phone, netbook, and GPS were all on their last legs and I knew there wouldn’t be anywhere to charge them for quite some time.

It was nice to be back in Carmel. I had helped a friend move to Carmel about 12 years ago and took my time going through town to see the place again. I had planned to check out Cannery Row the day before in Monterey but was too bushwhacked to do anything, so this morning helped make up for it.

After my breakfast I stopped at a coffee shop, got a couple blog posts up, and hit the Safeway nearby to stock up on food. The information I had showed basically nothing between here and Kirk Creek Campground where I’d be staying for the night, so I loaded up for the rest of the day.

Traffic was heavy as I headed up to the Carmel Highlands, but lightened up a bit after that. Little to no shoulder to speak of throughout today’s route, but I have to hand it to the drivers – overwhelmingly people have been very good about making room for me. (I find swerving every once in a while helps too. :)

yeah, okay.

The elevation profile for today’s route showed a variety of smaller hills for the first 30 miles, followed by the two big climbs in the second 30. I was more focused on the bigger climbs in the second half, but it turned out the first leg was the one that was tougher today. A constant headwind regardless of my direction made the inclines much more challenging. I rode at a laborious pace and made frequent stops trying to time my efforts with lulls in the wind.

the hills of Big Sur and the Bixby Bridge, which the Hulk bike really liked for some reason

At the halfway point I was planning on stopping at a state park to eat my lunch, but came across a tourist trap shortly before with a restaurant, gift shop, etc and outdoor seating. I ate my Safeway sandwich-in-a-box and crab salad that I had unnecessarily carried all morning thinking there wouldn’t be anywhere to eat here… grumble grumble. I tried to look at the bright side (hey, I was lightening my load) and then someone would walk by with a couple of hot dogs… cruel.

It seemed like everyone here was speaking a foreign language. French, Italian, Spanish, Russian possibly, and one I didn’t recognize. Lots of nice cars on the route here as you’d expect; every other car was either a Porsche, Mercedes, Jaguar, or some other expensive brand of penile augmentation. Hulk bike cares not for such things.

After lunch I headed off for the second half of the day’s riding. I took my time making it up the first hill, stopping about midway to make my regular “yes, I’m still alive” family phone call. Once the first hill was beaten, I continued and was feeling better as the day wore on. The clouds came back just as I crested the hill and didn’t let up for the rest of the day, but I didn’t care. As I started down the first hill I let out a banshee cry and felt the adrenaline surging; I was riding strong again.

Time and more hills passed, and before I knew it I was looking at the sign for Lucia, the town at the end of the second hill. I had passed the second big climb without really even noticing it. Is this all you can muster, Big Sur?

I saw a restaurant and decided to forego my camp dinner for a little celebratory meal tonight. I dined on garlic stuffed filet mignon and the best artichoke I’ve ever had, an appetizer marinated in balsamic vinegar with some slightly mustard-ish dipping sauce. Phenomenal.

After my excellent dinner I finished off what was left of the hill and rolled into Kirk Creek campground. This was the first and only national park campsite I’d be staying at. Nice location right by the water, good hiker/biker area, but no showers.

That evening I chatted up the various campers in the hiker/biker section. Two guys on a four-day jaunt around the local hills; a couple with a baby on the way who need a place to crash and had their car stashed on the highway; another couple from Ohio who also parked out of sight and were roughing it tonight. I ended up talking with the Ohio folk the most. The guy just got back from Iraq doing convoy escort, and the girl flew out to visit. They were generous with their chocolate and other snacks (I was generous with my appetite) as I told them of my trip and explained why I was doing it, which I discovered is not the easiest question to answer.

As it got late I headed off to nestle into my hammock. I went to sleep listening to the surf crashing on the beach, the wind rustling in the trees around me… I will miss this.

Most Exciting Moment
The artichoke appetizer. Still thinking about it. (The baked potato was very good as well.)

Roadkill Report

• two skunks
• a hummingbird
• a deer (though I can’t rule out it being an antelope or centaur as only its hindquarters was remaining)
• a snake